patternmaking 101

instructions to draft a

bodice block pattern

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what you’ll learn on this page

first, you’ll learn how to draft a basic bodice block without darts. it will be fitted, but you may notice some fitting issues, especially around the chest. this is a great place to start because it helps you understand the first steps of pattern drafting. if you add ease, you can also use this block to create looser garments.

in part 2, we’ll build on this first version. this time, you’ll add darts to improve the fit and shape of the bodice.

measurements you’ll need

here are the measurements we’ll use to draft your bodice block. if you’re not sure how to take any of them, you can always go back to the guide

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how to take body measurements correctly

this is an interactive form, so once you enter your measurements, the step-by-step tutorial will update with your own numbers. no need to worry about calculations. you can just focus on drafting.

enter your measurements

8/8
mannequin

drafting the front bodice

in this section, you’ll draft the front bodice block step by step using your measurements. follow each instruction carefully and take your time with every line. the goal is not just to finish, but to understand how the pattern is built.

step 1 of 911%
01
measurement
from point A, draw a vertical line downward to point C of: 47 cm
from point A, draw a horizontal line to the right to point B of: 18.5 cm
click to zoom

drafting the back bodice

in this section, you’ll draft the back bodice block step by step using your measurements. follow each instruction carefully and take your time with every line. just like the front, the goal is to understand how each part of the pattern is built.

step 1 of 911%
01
measurement
from point A, draw a vertical line downward to point C of: 45.5 cm
from point A, draw a horizontal line to the right to point B of: 18.5 cm
click to zoom

part 1 final pattern

now that you have your bodice pieces ready, the last step is to add seam allowance. add 2 cm to the shoulder on the back bodice, and don’t add seam allowance to the front shoulder.

for the sides, add 1 cm to each side, and also to the armhole and neckline. for this sloper, you’ll only be sewing the sides and shoulders, so you can skip adding seam allowance to the armhole and neckline if you prefer.

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front bodice with darts

now we’ll improve the fit of the front bodice by adding darts. this will help shape the fabric to your body, especially around the chest. follow the steps below to transform your basic block into a more fitted version.

step 1 of 617%
01
measurement
from point J add 3 cm or 1⅛'' to the right and mark point J1.
now draw a line to conenct H with J1.
click to zoom

back bodice with darts

now we’ll do the same for the back bodice. adding darts here will help remove excess fabric and create a better fit through the waist and back. follow the steps to update your pattern.

step 1 of 333%
01
measurement
from point J add 3 cm or 1⅛'' to the right and mark point J1.
now draw a line to conenct H with J1.
click to zoom

part 2 final pattern

now that you have your updated bodice pieces with darts, the last step is to add seam allowance. add 2 cm to the shoulder on the back bodice, and don’t add seam allowance to the front shoulder.

for the sides, add 1 cm to each side, and also to the armhole and neckline. for this sloper, you’ll only be sewing the sides, shoulders and darts so you can skip adding seam allowance to the armhole and neckline if you prefer.

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